In an effort to help prospective owners in their endeavor to purchase a healthy, quality PWD, below are some questions you should ask a breeder before a dog joins your family, as well as some answers to questions that your family may have before you decide to purchase a PWD. Finally, there are several resources that you could read through for more breed insight (both health-wise as well as breed specifics) listed at the end of this section.
Average Cost: The cost of a PWD averages about $2000+. The cost of a PWD is high because there are many expensive health tests that each parent must undergo before they should be used in any breeding program, as well as the costs of showing, breeding expenses, etc.
Picking Out The Right Puppy: Most breeders will NOT allow you to randomly pick a puppy in a litter. They should ask you what your "wish list" is and try to fill it as best they can, but you need to decide how flexible your family is willing to be. (e.g., If you want a male puppy and a female puppy is more suitable for your family in the breeder’s opinion, will your family accept a female puppy? Will your family accept a curly-coated puppy if you prefer a wavy coat? etc.)
Grooming: This is a breed which must be combed and brushed weekly to avoid tangles. Haircuts should occur every 4-6 weeks. Average professional grooming costs vary by city. I estimate that a trim and bath for an adult PWD would average around $60 per visit. Toenails need to be trimmed every two weeks.
Ask the breeder, and be comfortable with their answers, the following questions--also, ask for "proof" (i.e., copies) of health clearance certificates BEFORE you buy a puppy:
Can I see your dogs within your home? If no, why not? What type of guarantees do your dogs come with? Can I review your contract at least two weeks before I would pick up my puppy? Are deposits fully refunded if I choose not to get a puppy and/or if you do not have a puppy suitable for my family? If no, why not? Can I have copies of both the sire and dam’s OFA clear certifications for hips and elbows? (Note: If a dog is under two years of age at time of breeding, OFA certification is NOT available--only a "preliminary" report is, and it's best to steer away from a litter whose sire or dam is under age 2--why breed a dog so young?) Can I have copies of both the sire and dam’s CERF certificates? (Note: CERF normal certifications are good for only 12 months and then expire. Check the exam date on all CERF certificates to make sure that they were done less than 12 months ago. If they are expired, ask the breeder when the sire/dam will be re-CERFed and request that it be done prior to you receiving your puppy.) Can I have a copy of the sire/dam’s PRA analysis certifications as well as heart analysis reports? Can I have a copy of the puppy’s pedigree at least two weeks before I pick up my puppy? Does the puppy’s sire/dam have any siblings, parents, grandparents, etc., with known genetic problems or have they produced any genetic problems? (e.g., Cardiomyopathy, Addison’s Disease, Progressive Retinal Atrophy, severe hip dysplasia which resulted in hip replacement, etc.) What other certifications of the sire/dam can you provide me with (e.g., GM-1 normal certification) before I pick up my puppy? Ask any other questions you can think of.
Housing: Outside, a fenced yard (above or underground) is the safest way to go. Never leave your dog unattended outdoors nor run errands while your dog is loose outside if left in an unfenced area. Inside, a crate should be used--especially when your pup is small. PWDs are easily bored and will get themselves into trouble if left loose and unsupervised in a home. (Most underground fencing cannot be used on a pup under four to six months of age, and under 30 pounds.)
Food: An adult PWD eats an average of two cups of quality food per day. They do best when their meals are split into two meals daily. Fresh water at all times is a must.
Quirks and Traits: A PWD is a jumper--meaning they have a hard time keeping all their feet firmly on the ground. Small children can easily be knocked down since PWDs often launch themselves at people in their exuberance. PWDs can also be rather vocal--when they want your attention, they want it now! And they’ll do whatever means they need to do to make you pay attention to them...whether it’s just for a quick pet or for a romp outside. PWDs also tend to want to be with their "pet humans" at all times. If you simply go outdoors to get the mail and then return, it’s usually reason enough to your dog for them to make a huge production as they welcome your return.
Exercise Needs: Your PWD needs lots of exercise, whether it’s just running around the yard or going for long walks. It also needs lots of stimulation, so a variety of dog toys to choose from is also necessary. Enrolling your dog in obedience and/or agility classes are not only fun activities for you and your dog to do together, they also help your dog learn to be more manageable and thus be accepted as a visitor at other places. Also, remember that these dogs are predominately black, so shade must always be accessible to your dog.
The above comments and suggestions are solely our opinions and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of other dog breeders.
It is our policy to provide copies of all certifications, training articles (e.g., puppy proofing your home, etc.), contract, pedigree, feeding and vet instructions, etc., weeks before you ever pick up your puppy. As a general rule, (via e-mail) we try to send weekly "pupdates" to our buyers with a progress report as well as pictures. Many PWDs go to families in faraway places that never get to see the litter before they get their puppy, and we’ve found that new owners-to-be love feeling like they’re right here watching a litter grow and develop...plus it’s fun for us to share the delights of puppyhood with others!
Last piece of advice: Use common sense--if you don’t feel comfortable with a particular breeder (or vet), don’t buy a puppy from them (and find a different vet). Purchasing a PWD is an approximate 12-year commitment--wait for the puppy that best fits your family, and look for the breeder and vet that’re there to support, encourage, as well as cheer you on.
Resource Suggestions:
Breed Info: www.pwdca.org
PWD Foundation info: http://www.pwdinfo.com
Great Lakes PWD Club of MI: http://greatlakespwdclub.org/index.html
AKC: www.akc.org
OFA (orthopedic): www.offa.org
Links from the OFA site (some included below, but great listing): http://offa.org/links.html
CHIC: http://www.caninehealthinfo.org/chicinfo.html
PennHip (orthopedic): http://research.vet.upenn.edu/Default.aspx?alias=research.vet.upenn.edu/pennhip
CERF (vision): www.vet.purdue.edu/~yshen/cerf.html
PRA (blindness): www.optigen.com
Georgie Project: http://www.georgieproject.com
Renal Dysplasia Gene Test: http://www.dogenes.com/
Training Your Show Puppy: http://www.dogchannel.com/media/dog-shows/training-your-show-puppy.aspx.pdf
Books: "The New Complete Portuguese Water Dog," 2nd ed., by Kathryn Braund. 1997. Howell Book House. Cost: approximately $20.
"The Portuguese Water Dog: A Guide For The New Owner," by Verne Foster. Cost: approximately $10.50. Order at: http://www.pawtraits.com/ ... Verne is also an accomplished artist and her site offers many wonderful artsy things for the dog owner.
Average Cost: The cost of a PWD averages about $2000+. The cost of a PWD is high because there are many expensive health tests that each parent must undergo before they should be used in any breeding program, as well as the costs of showing, breeding expenses, etc.
Picking Out The Right Puppy: Most breeders will NOT allow you to randomly pick a puppy in a litter. They should ask you what your "wish list" is and try to fill it as best they can, but you need to decide how flexible your family is willing to be. (e.g., If you want a male puppy and a female puppy is more suitable for your family in the breeder’s opinion, will your family accept a female puppy? Will your family accept a curly-coated puppy if you prefer a wavy coat? etc.)
Grooming: This is a breed which must be combed and brushed weekly to avoid tangles. Haircuts should occur every 4-6 weeks. Average professional grooming costs vary by city. I estimate that a trim and bath for an adult PWD would average around $60 per visit. Toenails need to be trimmed every two weeks.
Ask the breeder, and be comfortable with their answers, the following questions--also, ask for "proof" (i.e., copies) of health clearance certificates BEFORE you buy a puppy:
Can I see your dogs within your home? If no, why not? What type of guarantees do your dogs come with? Can I review your contract at least two weeks before I would pick up my puppy? Are deposits fully refunded if I choose not to get a puppy and/or if you do not have a puppy suitable for my family? If no, why not? Can I have copies of both the sire and dam’s OFA clear certifications for hips and elbows? (Note: If a dog is under two years of age at time of breeding, OFA certification is NOT available--only a "preliminary" report is, and it's best to steer away from a litter whose sire or dam is under age 2--why breed a dog so young?) Can I have copies of both the sire and dam’s CERF certificates? (Note: CERF normal certifications are good for only 12 months and then expire. Check the exam date on all CERF certificates to make sure that they were done less than 12 months ago. If they are expired, ask the breeder when the sire/dam will be re-CERFed and request that it be done prior to you receiving your puppy.) Can I have a copy of the sire/dam’s PRA analysis certifications as well as heart analysis reports? Can I have a copy of the puppy’s pedigree at least two weeks before I pick up my puppy? Does the puppy’s sire/dam have any siblings, parents, grandparents, etc., with known genetic problems or have they produced any genetic problems? (e.g., Cardiomyopathy, Addison’s Disease, Progressive Retinal Atrophy, severe hip dysplasia which resulted in hip replacement, etc.) What other certifications of the sire/dam can you provide me with (e.g., GM-1 normal certification) before I pick up my puppy? Ask any other questions you can think of.
Housing: Outside, a fenced yard (above or underground) is the safest way to go. Never leave your dog unattended outdoors nor run errands while your dog is loose outside if left in an unfenced area. Inside, a crate should be used--especially when your pup is small. PWDs are easily bored and will get themselves into trouble if left loose and unsupervised in a home. (Most underground fencing cannot be used on a pup under four to six months of age, and under 30 pounds.)
Food: An adult PWD eats an average of two cups of quality food per day. They do best when their meals are split into two meals daily. Fresh water at all times is a must.
Quirks and Traits: A PWD is a jumper--meaning they have a hard time keeping all their feet firmly on the ground. Small children can easily be knocked down since PWDs often launch themselves at people in their exuberance. PWDs can also be rather vocal--when they want your attention, they want it now! And they’ll do whatever means they need to do to make you pay attention to them...whether it’s just for a quick pet or for a romp outside. PWDs also tend to want to be with their "pet humans" at all times. If you simply go outdoors to get the mail and then return, it’s usually reason enough to your dog for them to make a huge production as they welcome your return.
Exercise Needs: Your PWD needs lots of exercise, whether it’s just running around the yard or going for long walks. It also needs lots of stimulation, so a variety of dog toys to choose from is also necessary. Enrolling your dog in obedience and/or agility classes are not only fun activities for you and your dog to do together, they also help your dog learn to be more manageable and thus be accepted as a visitor at other places. Also, remember that these dogs are predominately black, so shade must always be accessible to your dog.
The above comments and suggestions are solely our opinions and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of other dog breeders.
It is our policy to provide copies of all certifications, training articles (e.g., puppy proofing your home, etc.), contract, pedigree, feeding and vet instructions, etc., weeks before you ever pick up your puppy. As a general rule, (via e-mail) we try to send weekly "pupdates" to our buyers with a progress report as well as pictures. Many PWDs go to families in faraway places that never get to see the litter before they get their puppy, and we’ve found that new owners-to-be love feeling like they’re right here watching a litter grow and develop...plus it’s fun for us to share the delights of puppyhood with others!
Last piece of advice: Use common sense--if you don’t feel comfortable with a particular breeder (or vet), don’t buy a puppy from them (and find a different vet). Purchasing a PWD is an approximate 12-year commitment--wait for the puppy that best fits your family, and look for the breeder and vet that’re there to support, encourage, as well as cheer you on.
Resource Suggestions:
Breed Info: www.pwdca.org
PWD Foundation info: http://www.pwdinfo.com
Great Lakes PWD Club of MI: http://greatlakespwdclub.org/index.html
AKC: www.akc.org
OFA (orthopedic): www.offa.org
Links from the OFA site (some included below, but great listing): http://offa.org/links.html
CHIC: http://www.caninehealthinfo.org/chicinfo.html
PennHip (orthopedic): http://research.vet.upenn.edu/Default.aspx?alias=research.vet.upenn.edu/pennhip
CERF (vision): www.vet.purdue.edu/~yshen/cerf.html
PRA (blindness): www.optigen.com
Georgie Project: http://www.georgieproject.com
Renal Dysplasia Gene Test: http://www.dogenes.com/
Training Your Show Puppy: http://www.dogchannel.com/media/dog-shows/training-your-show-puppy.aspx.pdf
Books: "The New Complete Portuguese Water Dog," 2nd ed., by Kathryn Braund. 1997. Howell Book House. Cost: approximately $20.
"The Portuguese Water Dog: A Guide For The New Owner," by Verne Foster. Cost: approximately $10.50. Order at: http://www.pawtraits.com/ ... Verne is also an accomplished artist and her site offers many wonderful artsy things for the dog owner.
